Beijing | Xi’an | Shanghai | Suzhou – 13th May to 22nd May 2025
Day 1: May 13 — From Mumbai to Beijing via Bangkok
Our journey to China began just past midnight on May 13, as we departed from Mumbai. Our first stop was Suvarnabhumi International Airport in Bangkok, where we landed at 5:35 AM local time. The airport had some unique touches — replicas of Thai temples added a cultural charm to an otherwise modern layout.
We spent a few relaxed hours in the Coral Lounge, resting up for the next leg of our trip. Around mid-morning, we boarded our flight to Beijing, arriving in the Chinese capital by 3:45 PM.
At Beijing Capital International Airport, we used the 10-day transit visa facility for entry. Immigration was slow, taking about 1.5 hours, but it was otherwise uneventful. By the time we reached baggage claim, our bags had already been taken off the carousel due to the delay at immigration. We had to take an airport train to get to the baggage area and clear customs around 5:30 PM.
From there, we took the Airport Express train to central Beijing — a smooth 45-minute ride that cost about $7 USD. At the city train station, we hailed a Didi (China’s equivalent of Uber) to reach our hotel, the Novotel Peace Hotel, for $4 USD. We arrived around 7:15 PM.
First impressions of Beijing: the infrastructure is modern and efficient, though some of the phone apps feel clunky and not particularly user-friendly. Outside the train station, we noticed the traffic was chaotic but not quite as wild as in India. There were plenty of electric scooters and cyclists, many of whom seemed to follow their own traffic rules — including one rider boldly going the wrong way down the street 😄.
Finding vegetarian food was our first real challenge. After a bit of searching, we settled on Peet’s Coffee, where we had a surprisingly good portobello mushroom veggie burger and a fresh salad. A satisfying end to a long day of travel.
Day 2 – May 14: A Day Steeped in Imperial Grandeur
We kicked off the day with an early plan to visit the Forbidden City—the sprawling imperial palace at the heart of Beijing. Despite placing several Didi requests, the rides took too long to arrive (15–20 minutes minimum, unlike the quick turnaround we’re used to). We arrived late at 8:30 am and had to join a different tour group than originally planned (for 8:00 am).
The Forbidden City is one of China’s most iconic landmarks and a must-visit in Beijing. Located at the heart of the city, it served as the imperial palace for 24 emperors of the Ming and Qing dynasties, from 1420 to 1912. Spanning over 180 acres and comprising 980 buildings, it’s the largest ancient palatial structure in the world.
The complex is a masterpiece of traditional Chinese architecture, with golden roofs, red walls, and intricately carved woodwork. The name “Forbidden City” refers to the fact that ordinary citizens were not allowed to enter without imperial permission. Today, it is open to all as the Palace Museum, showcasing priceless artifacts, imperial treasures, and centuries of Chinese history.
Our guide, Helen, brought the imperial compound to life with her insights. Stretching 900m x 700m, the Forbidden City was home to emperors of the Ming and Qing dynasties for nearly 500 years. The southern halls once served as administrative and ceremonial spaces, while the northern quarters housed the emperor and his family.
The concierge at Novotel had warned us that tickets were sold out, prompting us to pre-book a guided tour. Ironically, once there, we realised that tickets were quite easy to obtain.
One of the most striking features was the golden yellow rooftops—a color once reserved solely for royalty. Among the many fascinating structures were incense burners scattered across the courtyards and an ancient sundial, reminiscent of those at Jantar Mantar in Delhi.
Despite being crowded, our guide informed us that the summer months see even larger influxes of tourists.
Large Stone Carving – Dashidiao
Behind the Hall of Preserving Harmony (Baohe dian) lies the largest stone carving in the Forbidden City. Known as Dashidiao, the sculpture is divided into upper, middle, and lower sections. The lower section alone is an impressive 16.57 meters long, 3.07 meters wide, and 1.7 meters deep, weighing nearly 200 tons.
The current patterns, dominated by nine coiled dragons amidst billowing clouds, were re-carved in 1760 during the 25th year of Emperor Qianlong’s reign. The intricate design features “waves and mountains” (haishui jiangya) at the base and curling grass motifs along the edges.
This massive stone was quarried in Fangshan District (Dashiwo), roughly 80 km from Beijing. Historical records note that it took 28 days and 20,000 laborers, using specially designed sledges, to haul the stone to the palace—an astonishing feat of logistics and manpower in ancient China.
The language on the signboards caught our attention—Mandarin on the left and Manchurian on the right. China has over 300 languages and dialects – 8 of them as majorly spoken languages. While Mandarin remains China’s official language, the Manchurian script reflects the heritage of the Qing dynasty.
Along the way, we indulged in mango ice cream, creatively shaped like lions and palaces—common in Chinese culture, where symbolism is woven into everyday items.
We noticed stone lion statues, including one at the entrance of the inner quarters with closed ears—a nod to palace protocol: queens were expected to “hear nothing and say nothing.”
After a morning immersed in imperial history, we ended our tour around 1:30 pm and ventured into a local restaurant for lunch. With some effort explaining our vegetarian preferences, we were served hand-pulled noodles in peanut sauce (not great) and a delicious stir-fried cauliflower dish. The staff was accommodating, and we even requested forks instead of chopsticks!
The average meal in Beijing costs around $6 per person, while Western restaurants tend to be a bit pricier at $10–12. We were open to anything, as long as it was vegetarian.
Afternoon Explorations: Parks, Pagodas & Panoramas
Post-lunch, we walked about 1.5 km to Jingshan Park, located just north of the Forbidden City. Since the subway didn’t have a convenient stop and taxis were slow to arrive, walking was the best option.
Jingshan Park is a man-made hill located just north of the Forbidden City, created during the early Ming Dynasty in the 15th century using earth excavated from the construction of the palace’s moats. The park served both as a scenic imperial garden and a strategic lookout point, providing a commanding view over the Forbidden City and Beijing. Historically, it is infamous as the site where the Chongzhen Emperor, the last ruler of the Ming Dynasty, is said to have committed suicide in 1644, marking the fall of the dynasty and the rise of the Qing Dynasty.
From its Wanchun Pavilion, we were rewarded with a 360-degree panoramic view of Beijing, including a breathtaking perspective of the Forbidden City. This spot is also considered the geographical center of Beijing. It took us about 20 minutes to get to the top of Jingshan Park from the entrance. The ticket was about 2 Yuan (~INR 20)
Located at the central peak of Jingshan Park, directly aligned with the central axis of the Forbidden City, Wanchun Pavilion (“Pavilion of Ten Thousand Spring Views”) offers one of the most iconic panoramic views in Beijing. Originally built during the Ming Dynasty and rebuilt in later periods, this traditional Chinese pavilion sits atop the artificial hill created from the soil excavated during the construction of the Imperial Palace’s moat.
Historically, Jingshan served as a symbolic “protective screen” behind the Forbidden City, according to feng shui principles. Today, from the Wanchun Pavilion, visitors can gaze over the golden rooftops of the Forbidden City, making it a favorite spot for photography and appreciating Beijing’s historic urban layout.
Next, around 3:45 pm, we made our way to Beihai Park, situated in the center of a large lake and accessible via a graceful bridge.
Known for its lush gardens, historic temples, and the White Dagoba (Buddhist stupa) on Jade Flower Island, Beihai Park is a tranquil contrast to the buzz of the city.
Beihai Park is one of the oldest and most well-preserved imperial gardens in China, with a history of over 1,000 years dating back to the Liao Dynasty (10th century). It was expanded and enhanced during the Jin, Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties. The park features a large lake, traditional Chinese gardens, temples, and the iconic White Dagoba, a Tibetan-style stupa built in the 17th century. Historically, it served as a private retreat for emperors and royal families, reflecting the grandeur and aesthetics of Chinese landscape design.
After exploring the park, we considered another Didi, but delays nudged us to walk back to the hotel, arriving around 5:30 pm. After a short rest, we set off again, this time navigating the Beijing subway using the Amap app (China’s version of Google Maps).
The subway system is impressive: clean, efficient, and incredibly cheap—just $0.40 per ride, paid via a simple tap of our Visa card. Trains arrived every 2–3 minutes.
We headed to Tiananmen Square, but entry required prior reservations. So instead, we strolled along Wangfujing, a lively pedestrian shopping street lined with designer stores, street food vendors, and vibrant lights.
Dinner was a bit of a hunt. After a failed attempt at Subway sandwiches and a questionable crepe (whether vegetarian or not), we discovered a Middle Eastern restaurant inside a mall that also housed a Cheesecake Factory and Thai eatery. To our delight, the Middle Eastern spot had plenty of vegetarian options, and we enjoyed a hearty, satisfying dinner.
We wrapped up the day with a peaceful 15-minute walk back to our hotel, feeling both tired and content after a fulfilling day.
Reflections from Day 2
- Beijing is spotlessly clean, with virtually no visible trash.
- People tend to cut queues—a cultural similarity to India!
- The city has embraced electric vehicles widely, resulting in minimal vehicular pollution.
- English isn’t widely spoken, but signboards are usually in both Chinese and English.
- The Chinese language sounds intense, often coming across as argumentative even in casual conversation.
- It’s remarkable how China has grown: 35 years ago, its per capita GDP was lower than India’s, yet today it has lifted over a billion people out of poverty.
- China’s autocratic model is evident—apps like Google, WhatsApp, and Netflix are banned.
- Passports are mandatory for booking and entering major tourist sites.
- We saw no beggars—possibly a result of strict state control.
- And yes, we clocked nearly 19 km of walking that day!
Day 3 – May 15: The Great Wall of China and Tiananmen Square
Our plan for Day 3 was to visit one of the world’s most iconic landmarks — the Great Wall of China. Spanning thousands of miles, this monumental structure was built over many centuries, beginning as early as the 7th century BC, primarily to defend northern China from invasions by Mongolian and Manchurian tribes.
Among the various sections open to tourists, the two most popular are Badaling and Mutianyu. We opted for the Mutianyu section, known for its well-preserved walls, fewer crowds, and stunning scenery.
We joined a guided bus tour that departed from Beijing at 8:00 am and reached the wall by 9:45 am. Contrary to warnings we had heard from hotel concierges and websites about how difficult it might be to get tickets for the cable car lift, we found it surprisingly easy to purchase tickets on the spot. While the crowds are indeed heavy, especially during peak season, in May it was not an issue at all.
Exploring the Wall: Watchtowers and Views
The Mutianyu section features watchtowers numbered from 1 to 20, with Tower 20 marking the westernmost point visitors can access.
We started by taking a modern, well-built cable car up to Watchtower 14 on the western side. From there, we embarked on a roughly 2.5 km hike westward toward Watchtower 20, which is the tallest watchtower in this section and known as the Hero Watchtower. The wall traverses a rugged, hilly terrain, with steep climbs and descents — some steps were unusually tall, making the hike quite strenuous.
It’s truly mind-boggling to think that over 2,000 years ago, people managed to build this massive structure across such a difficult landscape, without the aid of modern machinery.
The last stretch from Tower 19 to Tower 20 was especially steep, but Anu and I powered through in about six minutes without stopping. At the top of Tower 20, we enjoyed spectacular 360-degree panoramic views of the surrounding hills and forests.
Continuing the Adventure: East Side and Toboggan Ride
After descending back to Tower 14 by cable car, we took another cable car to the eastern section of the wall at Watchtower 6. Although we could have walked directly from Tower 14 to Tower 6, our guide advised against it — plus, the pricing made it more economical to buy two round-trip tickets rather than one-way (the cost of two round-trips was 280 RMB. The cost of two one-ways would have been 200 RMB).
From Tower 6, we hiked eastward towards Watchtower 1, also known as Dajiaolou (Great Corner Tower). While our guide had suggested this eastern stretch would be easier, it turned out to be quite steep as well. The views along the way were fantastic and worth the effort.
Instead of taking the cable car down from Tower 6, we opted for the toboggan ride, a 3 km-long slide that winds down the mountain.
The toboggan, built by a German company, operates much like a bobsled but with a hand-controlled brake to adjust speed — a thrilling and unique way to descend the wall. Installed as a metal track system with individual sleds, visitors control their own speed as they wind down through forested hills. It’s a modern twist to an ancient site, especially popular with younger tourists. The ride adds a touch of thrill to the otherwise historical visit and contrasts delightfully with the centuries-old surroundings.
We ate a simple lunch at the cable car station — stir-fried cucumber and vegetable noodles — before heading back to Beijing. Our bus returned us to the city by around 4:45 pm.
With some time left, we made a quick visit to the Yonghegong Lama Temple, one of Beijing’s famous Tibetan Buddhist temples. It was closing soon, so the visit was brief but meaningful.
Yonghegong Lama Temple (Lama Temple), Beijing
Originally built in 1694 as the residence of Prince Yong (later Emperor Yongzheng), the Yonghegong Lama Temple was converted into a lamasery in 1744. It became the most important Tibetan Buddhist temple in China outside of Tibet. The complex blends Han Chinese and Tibetan architectural styles and houses magnificent artworks, including a 26-meter-tall statue of Maitreya Buddha carved from a single sandalwood tree. It remains an active place of worship and a symbol of religious harmony in imperial China.
Back at the hotel around 5:30 pm, I took a short nap to recover from the day’s exertion.
Tiananmen Square: History and Reflections
At around 7:00 pm, we headed out to Tiananmen Square, the largest public square in Beijing, located in front of the Chairman Mao Memorial Hall. The square is home to the People’s Heroes Monument and is steeped in history, including the 1989 pro-democracy uprising that was violently suppressed.
Tiananmen Square, Beijing
Tiananmen Square is one of the largest public squares in the world, covering 44 hectares (109 acres). It was originally designed and expanded in the 1950s under Mao Zedong’s direction to showcase the power of the Communist state. Named after the “Gate of Heavenly Peace” at its north end, the square has been the site of major events in Chinese history, including the May Fourth Movement in 1919 and the founding ceremony of the People’s Republic of China in 1949. It is also widely known for the 1989 pro-democracy protests, which ended in a military crackdown.
There is a famous image from that event — a lone man standing defiantly in front of a line of tanks, symbolising resistance against oppression.
Access to Tiananmen Square requires advance reservations linked to your passport, a reminder of how controlled tourism and security are in China.
We spent about an hour there, soaking in the significance of this vast, historic space.
To end the day, we returned to the Turkish restaurant for dinner, enjoying dishes like Mahmurra, Pide, and Ayran (buttermilk) — a comforting meal after a long day.
By the time we got back to the hotel around 9:45 pm, our feet were tired from walking roughly 18 km. We slept almost immediately, exhausted but fulfilled by an unforgettable day.
Day 4 – May 16: Museums, Temples, and a Bullet Train to Xi’an
Our fourth day in China began with a visit to the National Museum of China, located on the eastern side of Tiananmen Square in Beijing. I had secured a reservation slot for 9:00 am, and it worked out perfectly. One of the key things we learned quickly in China is that almost every tourist attraction either requires a reservation, a ticket, or both. There’s no just “walking in.” While reservations are often free, many places also charge an entrance fee, typically between $8 to $15 USD. While this may feel expensive from a local Chinese perspective, it’s quite reasonable for tourists, especially those coming from countries like the US.
National Museum of China: A Grand but Curated View
The National Museum itself is an impressive, modern structure — spacious, clean, and very well maintained. It certainly reflects China’s dedication to presenting a first-world tourism experience.
However, the curation of exhibits leaned heavily toward ancient history and national pride, with galleries showcasing bronzes, pottery, calligraphy, and sculptures from China’s long dynastic past. There were also entire sections devoted to China’s achievements in science, space technology, and infrastructure, clearly framed to bolster national pride and global status.
I was hoping to see more of China’s modern political history, particularly the transitional years around 1949, when the Communist Party took over from the Kuomintang (KMT) and Chiang Kai-shek’s government retreated to Taiwan. To my disappointment, there was little content on this. The exhibits on Mao Zedong, the Cultural Revolution, or the events that shaped the People’s Republic in its formative decades were virtually absent or glossed over — a reminder that the story China wants to tell the world is carefully managed.
A Glimpse of Everyday Beijing
As we left the museum and walked toward our lunch spot, I paused to snap a photo of a typical Beijing scooterist — a scene that became oddly iconic for me. Almost every scooter driver wears a cloth or blanket over the front of their body to shield from the cold or wind. But what struck me was that they wear it even in summer, as a cultural habit or maybe just out of convenience. These little everyday details are often more telling than monuments.
Lunch: A Thai Puzzle
Lunch was at a nearby Thai restaurant, and we ran into the all-too-familiar vegetarian traveler’s dilemma: how to communicate clearly that we wanted no eggs, no fish, and no meat. Despite multiple tries, we weren’t quite successful in explaining “Pad Thai without meat or fish sauce,” so we settled for a refreshing papaya salad and some lemongrass water, which turned out to be a good palate cleanser for a warm Beijing afternoon.
Temple of Heaven – An Unexpected Highlight
Our final stop in Beijing before heading to the train station was the Temple of Heaven — a place we had underestimated.
Temple of Heaven – UNESCO World Heritage Site
The Temple of Heaven (Tiantan) was constructed in 1420 during the Ming Dynasty and was used by emperors of the Ming and Qing dynasties for annual ceremonies of prayer to Heaven for good harvests. Located in southeastern Beijing, the complex is a masterpiece of Chinese ritual architecture, designed to reflect the relationship between Heaven and Earth. The main structure, the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, is entirely wooden and built without nails. The Temple of Heaven is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a popular public park.
We had assumed it would be a quick stop at a small temple, but it turned out to be a vast complex, covering nearly 3 km of walking round trip. Originally constructed in the early 15th century during the Ming Dynasty, the Temple of Heaven was where emperors would pray for good harvests. It is laid out in perfect harmony with Chinese cosmology — circular structures symbolizing Heaven and square layouts for Earth.
One unexpected delight inside the premises was a beautiful rose garden, blooming in full color. The temple’s architecture, with its circular blue-tiled roofs, is truly unique — and surrounded by peaceful parkland that offers a pleasant contrast to the dense urban buzz of Beijing.
Journey to Xi’an: A Ride on China’s Bullet Train
At 3:45 pm, we left our hotel in a taxi for Beijing West Railway Station, arriving around 4:30 pm. The station was bustling with people, but impressively modern, efficient, and well-signposted. We boarded the 5:08 pm bullet train (Train #665) to Xi’an — one of the world’s most iconic train routes.
The train ride was a highlight in itself. Covering over 1,100 km (684 miles) in just 5 hours, it hit top speeds of 304 km/h (189 mph). The interiors were clean, spacious, and felt somewhat similar to India’s Vande Bharat AC Chair Car, but with an even smoother ride. For the two of us, tickets cost 1,120 RMB (roughly $156 USD total or $78 per person) — a great value for such a fast and comfortable journey.
We reached Xi’an North Station at 10:45 pm, and from there, we ordered a Didi (China’s equivalent of Uber) to take us to our hotel. Everything worked smoothly. Within half an hour, we arrived at the Novotel Xi’an Bell Tower.
After a long day, the Novotel in Xi’an was a pleasant surprise. The room was large and came packed with high-tech features — including an overhead projector TV, modern lighting controls, and other smart gadgets that made us feel like we’d entered a futuristic hotel room.
We were finally in Xi’an — the ancient capital of several Chinese dynasties and the starting point of the old Silk Road. Tomorrow, we would begin exploring its rich cultural heritage, but for now, it was time to rest.
Distance walked: ~7–8 km
Distance traveled by train: 1,100 km
Top speed: 304 km/hr
Sleep quality: Excellent, in a high-tech cocoon.
Day 5: May 17 — Terracotta Army and Bicycling the Xi’an City Wall
We started our day in Xi’an with a hearty breakfast. The hotel continued to impress us—not only were the rooms modern and spacious, but the breakfast spread was generous, with a mix of Chinese and continental options.
At 9:00 am, we took a Didi taxi from the hotel to one of China’s most extraordinary archaeological sites—Emperor Qin Shi Huang’s Mausoleum Site Museum, home to the world-famous Terracotta Army.
Terracotta Army and Mausoleum of Emperor Qin Shi Huang
Emperor Qin Shi Huang, who reigned around 250 BCE, was the first emperor to unify China. Driven by the ancient Chinese belief that “serving the dead is as if you are serving the living,” he envisioned and constructed a grand necropolis to accompany him into the afterlife. This underground city was designed like a real capital, complete with military formations, living quarters, chariots, horses, and kitchens, all rendered in astonishing detail. Most famously, it includes thousands of life-sized terracotta soldiers, each with unique facial features—no two are alike.
The site remained buried and forgotten for over two millennia until local farmers accidentally discovered it while digging a well in March 1974. This discovery led to what is now considered one of the greatest archaeological finds of the 20th century, often referred to as the “Eighth Wonder of the World.” Since then, the area has become a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a five-star tourist destination, attracting over 100 million visitors from around the globe, including heads of state and dignitaries.
The Emperor Qin Shihuang Mausoleum Site Museum, upgraded from the original Museum of the Terracotta Army, now serves as a major cultural and educational institution. The museum complex is multifunctional—designed for education, research, sightseeing, and entertainment—while remaining respectful to the site’s historical and archaeological significance.
Covering an area of 45.69 square kilometers, with 2.13 square kilometers designated as the key mausoleum area (the inner and outer cities), the site is grand in scale and rich in burial artifacts. Over 600 burial pits and tombs and more than 50,000 cultural relics have been unearthed, along with over 10 above-ground architectural remains.
The layout reflects the concept of a capital city:
- The inner city encloses the mausoleum mound,
- The middle city lies between the inner and outer walls,
- The outer city spreads beyond the outermost walls.
Each zone is organized with clear priorities and reflects a meticulously planned imperial vision of the afterlife.
The main Terracotta Army pits, located about 1.5 km east of the emperor’s tomb, represent the main defending force for the emperor in the afterlife. The museum opened to the public on October 1, 1979, and remains one of China’s top historical destinations.
Pit 1 is the largest and most iconic, measuring 230 meters long and 62 meters wide. This subterranean earth-and-wood chamber is expected to contain over 6,000 life-sized figures—soldiers, horses, and chariots—all crafted with extraordinary detail, symbolizing the might of Qin’s army.
Pit 3, discovered in June 1976, lies 25 meters north of Pit 1 and measures 28.8 meters by 24.57 meters, with a depth of 5.2–5.4 meters and an area of 520 square meters. Though it was severely damaged, archaeologists uncovered:
- Remains of a chariot,
- 68 terracotta soldiers,
- 4 terracotta horses,
- 34 bronze weapons.
Pit 3 is believed to be the command center for the formations in Pits 1 and 2.
Admission to the museum is 120 RMB per person, and tickets can be conveniently purchased on-site. The museum also features extensive exhibits on Emperor Qin’s reign, his consolidation of China, and the evolving excavation efforts.
The visit is not only a visual marvel but also an insightful journey into ancient Chinese politics, military organization, science, and art. With its vast scale, historical significance, and artistic mastery, the Terracotta Army stands as a testament to the ambition and legacy of Emperor Qin Shi Huang.
We wrapped up our visit around 12:30 pm and headed back toward Xi’an. (For reference, Xi’an, pronounced “Shee-aan” or “See-aan,” was once the ancient capital of China and the eastern terminus of the Silk Road.) On the way back, we stopped for a quick bite.
We tried kumquat and lemon tea, which was refreshing and slightly tart—tea shops are immensely popular in China and can be seen on almost every street corner. Tea, or “cha” in Mandarin, is central to Chinese culture, and these modern tea cafes offer a wide variety of innovative blends at prices lower than Starbucks. We also grabbed a Subway veggie delight sandwich, though the preparation left much to be desired. After this underwhelming meal, we made a mental note to skip Subway for the rest of the trip.
We rested briefly in the afternoon and then set out around 4:30 pm for one of Xi’an’s most iconic landmarks—the Xi’an City Wall. This is one of the oldest, largest, and best-preserved city walls in China, stretching 13.75 kilometres in a rectangular loop around the old city.
The Xi’an City Wall is one of the oldest, largest, and best-preserved city walls in China. Originally built during the early Ming Dynasty in the 14th century on the foundations of the Tang Dynasty walls, it stretches about 13.7 kilometers in circumference, enclosing the old city of Xi’an in a perfect rectangle.
The wall stands 12 meters high, with a width ranging from 12 to 14 meters at the top—wide enough to walk or even cycle along the entire loop. It features four main gates: North, South, East, and West, each with watchtowers and intricate defensive structures like gate towers and corner towers.
Today, the Xi’an City Wall is a symbol of the city’s rich military past and a great place to enjoy panoramic views of ancient and modern Xi’an.
We entered via the South Gate (Yongning Gate), the most visually striking and popular gate of the wall. It was fascinating to see the stark contrast between the interior of the wall, which retains its historic charm with low-rise buildings and narrow streets, and the exterior, lined with gleaming skyscrapers and modern infrastructure.
Entry to the wall costs 54 RMB per person, and one of the most popular activities here is cycling atop the wall itself. We rented bicycles for 45 RMB each for a three-hour duration and decided to go for the full loop—a thrilling 13.75 km ride on the ancient ramparts. The path was wide and relatively uncrowded, giving us unobstructed views of both the ancient city inside and modern Xi’an outside.
Along the way, we passed several notable landmarks:
The Guangren Lama Temple, a serene Tibetan Buddhist temple adorned with a striking yellow tree at its center. It was so symmetrical and vivid, we briefly questioned whether it was real or artificial.
The Guangren Lama Temple is a rare Tibetan Buddhist temple located within the city walls of Xi’an. Built in 1703 during the Qing Dynasty under the Kangxi Emperor, the temple was constructed to provide a resting place for high-ranking Tibetan lamas visiting the imperial court. It is the only Tibetan Buddhist temple in Shaanxi Province and features a blend of traditional Han and Tibetan architectural elements. The temple is peaceful, richly adorned with colorful prayer flags, and includes a striking golden stupa and ancient trees that give it a tranquil, spiritual ambiance.
The Xi’an Railway Station, visible from the northern edge of the wall—an example of the seamless blend between old and new.
A photo shoot of a newlywed couple, capturing their special moments against the historic backdrop of the wall.
The Bell Tower and Drum Tower, located within the walled city, were beautifully illuminated at night. These towers are remnants of the Ming dynasty and are iconic symbols of Xi’an.
Located at the heart of the city where the four main roads intersect, the Bell Tower of Xi’an is one of the most iconic landmarks of the city. Originally built in 1384 during the Ming Dynasty, the tower was used to announce the time and served as an early warning system. The structure is a perfect example of traditional Chinese architecture, with its green-tiled roof, red columns, and intricate woodwork. At night, it is beautifully illuminated, serving as a photogenic centerpiece of the city’s skyline.
Situated just northwest of the Bell Tower, the Drum Tower dates back to 1380 and was used in conjunction with the Bell Tower to mark the passage of time—drums were beaten to signal nightfall, while bells rang in the morning. Today, the tower houses a drum museum and offers panoramic views of the Muslim Quarter and surrounding city. The traditional architecture and the large ceremonial drums on display make it a fascinating visit, especially during scheduled drum performances.
We completed the full bicycle loop in about two hours, ending back at the South Gate by 7:30 pm. It was both an invigorating and meditative experience—cycling on ancient stones while looking out over centuries of history and change.
Dinner was at a restaurant near the South Gate. We were delighted to find vegetarian pizza with burrata cheese and fries, served exactly as expected—no hidden meat or fish, which is always a welcome relief for vegetarian travelers in China.
After dinner, we walked to the nearby Muslim Quarter, one of Xi’an’s most vibrant neighborhoods.
Located just behind the Drum Tower, the Muslim Quarter is one of Xi’an’s most famous and vibrant neighborhoods. It is home to the city’s Hui Muslim community, whose presence in Xi’an dates back over a thousand years to when the city was the eastern terminus of the Silk Road. The area is a lively maze of narrow streets filled with colorful shops and food stalls selling a wide variety of traditional snacks and specialties—lamb skewers, flatbreads, persimmon cakes, and hand-pulled noodles, among others.
Though mostly non-vegetarian, the sheer energy, lighting, and smells of the street food make it a must-visit. The district also has several historic mosques, including the Great Mosque of Xi’an, one of the oldest and largest mosques in China. The architecture in the area blends traditional Chinese and Islamic styles, creating a unique and culturally rich atmosphere.
Though packed with street food stalls offering everything from skewers to desserts, vegetarian options were limited. We tried a rice cake dessert that looked promising but didn’t live up to the taste. Nevertheless, the ambience and energy of the quarter were worth the visit.
On our walk back to the hotel, we passed by the Xi’an Bell Tower again, now glowing brilliantly under the night sky. The area was bustling with both locals and tourists, everyone capturing the moment in photos.
We arrived back at Novotel around 9:45 pm, exhausted but deeply satisfied with the day. From ancient warriors to modern cycling trails, Day 5 gave us a deep and diverse look into the historical richness of Xi’an.
Day 6: May 18 — Big Wild Goose Pagoda and Overnight Train to Shanghai
We had originally planned to visit the Shaanxi History Museum in the morning. However, it was frustrating to learn that entry is strictly limited to 12,000 visitors per day, and the earliest available reservation was three days later on May 21. Despite several attempts, we couldn’t get tickets. We considered walking up to the museum on the chance of securing entry on the spot during our visit to the nearby Big Wild Goose Pagoda, but decided instead to take it easy in the morning and plan for a more relaxed day.
After a leisurely breakfast, we set out in the afternoon to visit the Big Wild Goose Pagoda. Located in southern Xi’an, this historic site is one of the most iconic Buddhist landmarks in China.
The pagoda is five stories tall (originally built with more levels, it has changed over centuries due to earthquakes and restorations) and was constructed in 652 AD during the Tang Dynasty. It was built to house the Buddhist scriptures and relics that the Chinese monk Xuanzang (also spelt Hsuan Tsang) brought back from his epic 17-year pilgrimage to India.
Xuanzang is a legendary figure in Chinese history and Buddhism. He traveled to India around 627 AD, visiting sacred Buddhist sites including Nalanda University, and collected over 600 Sanskrit texts. After returning to China, he spent the rest of his life translating these scriptures into Chinese and helping formalize Buddhist philosophy in East Asia. The Big Wild Goose Pagoda served as the center of these translation activities and became a spiritual hub of Buddhist learning.
We visited a hall in the temple complex where some of the preserved Sanskrit texts and their Chinese translations are kept. In the background, serene Buddhist chants filled the air. They resembled the sound of ‘Om’ and added to the deeply spiritual atmosphere. Several visitors were quietly meditating.
For lunch, we had vegetarian pizza at Papa John’s, which turned out to be surprisingly good. After that, we spent some time shopping at Uniqlo, a popular Japanese retail chain. In front of the shopping area, we saw an interesting statue that reminded us of Hanuman from Indian mythology—possibly a local deity or guardian figure influenced by Buddhist or Hindu traditions.
We returned to the hotel around 5:30 pm, collected our luggage, and took a taxi to Xi’an Railway Station. The station was massive, modern, and efficiently organized. We boarded the D128 overnight sleeper train from Xi’an to Shanghai, departing that evening. Our seats were in Carriage 15, Berths 17 and 18, part of a clean and well-maintained soft sleeper coupe.
We were pleasantly surprised by the quality of the sleeper train.
Each coupe accommodates four passengers, and we shared ours with a kind couple from Hangzhou, a city close to Shanghai. They were on their way back from visiting Xi’an and spoke some basic English. He was a software engineer, and she was a beautician. They were expecting their first baby, and our conversation turned to vegetarian food.
When we told them about our diet, they generously offered us flour twists and potato chips.
We turned in for the night around 9:45 pm, lulled by the quiet rhythm of the train. It was a smooth ride, and we were impressed by how comfortable and clean the facilities were—a far cry from the stereotypes often associated with overnight trains.
Day 7: May 19 — Arrival in Shanghai, Yuyuan Garden, The Bund, and Park Hyatt Views
We spent the night travelling on the train from Xi’an to Shanghai Songjiang Station. This station is quite far from downtown Shanghai, serving as a hub for trains that bypass the city centre and head to other destinations. Our train, continuing onward to Hangzhou (pronounced Hang-jo), was scheduled to arrive at 10:22 am but pulled in at 10:49 am after covering roughly 1,200 kilometres in 15 hours.
As we waited, a cute Chinese boy wandered past our berth, peeking in curiously. Anu had a lot of fun playing with him, which was a sweet start to the day.
After disembarking, we took a Didi taxi to our hotel. The drive took about 1 hour and 10 minutes and cost a reasonable 115 yuan (approximately $16.50 USD). Our ride was a sleek BYD SUV, a reminder of China’s growing domestic automotive industry.
Our hotel, the Metropole Jingjian Classic Hotel, was located on East Nanjing Pedestrian Street—a bustling area known for shopping and dining. Finding the hotel was a bit tricky because most signage was in Chinese, and the reception staff had limited English. However, the quality of the room more than made up for these minor inconveniences. The room was modern and state-of-the-art, providing a comfortable retreat.
We checked in around 1 pm, and I took some time to rest as I wasn’t feeling well — a slight fever and sore throat were slowing me down. After some much-needed sleep, we headed out at 4:30 pm to visit Yuyuan Garden.
Yuyuan Garden is a classical Chinese garden located in the Old City of Shanghai. Built during the Ming Dynasty, it features beautiful pavilions, rockeries, ponds, and traditional architecture, offering a serene escape from the busy urban surroundings.
The area around the garden was lively, with plenty of shops and pedestrians adding to the vibrant atmosphere. On our way back, Anu spotted a charming chocolate shop near the hotel and snapped some photos of the tempting displays.
It’s impressive how China has fully embraced capitalism—modern goods and brands, many familiar from the West, are widely available. The energy of the economy and the bustle of the city was palpable.
We returned to the hotel around 5:30 pm to rest again and help me recover. Later, around 6:30 pm, we set out to visit the Shanghai Bund—a famous riverfront promenade along the Huangpu River with stunning views of the Shanghai skyline and financial district. It features historic colonial-era buildings on one side and modern skyscrapers like the Oriental Pearl Tower on the opposite bank, showcasing Shanghai’s blend of old and new.
Walking along the Bund was a feast for the eyes. The crowd was large, but the streets were impeccably clean. Ushers stood at every corner, expertly managing pedestrian flow to avoid congestion.
Our hotel’s location was superb—just a 3-minute walk from the Bund and right on East Nanjing Pedestrian Street. This location was recommended by my son, Aditya, and it turned out to be an excellent choice, especially at the rate of $96 per night.
We had originally planned to visit the observation deck on the 128th floor of the Shanghai Tower, the tallest building in Shanghai, with tickets costing about $25 per person. However, Aditya suggested a more relaxed alternative: visiting the lobby of the Park Hyatt Hotel on the 87th floor of the Shanghai World Financial Center, instead.
We spent a pleasant evening there, sipping coffee and hot chocolate from plush sofas while enjoying spectacular views of the Oriental Pearl Tower and the Huangpu River. The experience cost us just $20 for the two of us—more economical and comfortable than the official observation deck, though it lacked the full 360-degree panoramic views.
We returned to the hotel around 9:45 pm, tired but satisfied after a full day exploring Shanghai’s highlights.
Learnings from China (up to Day 7: May 19)
Electric Scooters: All scooters on the streets are electric and have the same rights as pedestrians. They often use footpaths and cross roads just like people walking.
Electric Cars Dominate: Most cars in cities are electric, contributing to very low pollution levels. American and Japanese car brands are rare. Chinese brands, especially BYD, are very popular and widely seen.
Vegetarian Food Is Hard to Find: Finding pure vegetarian food in China is extremely difficult. Many locals react with surprise or amusement when you ask for vegetarian meals. Communication barriers make it tougher, and even large food courts often lack vegetarian options. International cuisines like Mexican, Italian, Middle Eastern, Thai, and Indian are rare. Personally, Anu and I didn’t find Chinese food visually or aromatically appealing, but that’s a personal preference.
Popular Western Chains: Starbucks is the most popular American chain, with outlets almost every few blocks. McDonald’s comes next, followed by Pizza Hut and KFC. Even Pizza Hut, however, often lacks vegetarian pizza options.
Public Transport: Subway systems in Beijing, Shanghai, and Xi’an are very efficient and clean. A metro day pass in Beijing or Shanghai costs around 18 yuan (about $2.50 USD), which is quite affordable.
Didi Taxi App: Didi taxis work well outside Beijing. In Beijing, heavy traffic can make rides longer and sometimes harder to get, but the app overall is very reliable.
Day 8: May 20 — Jing’an Temple, Jade Buddha Temple, Propaganda Poster Museum, and Tianzifang
We began our day with breakfast and headed to Jing’an Temple around 10 am.
Jing’an Temple is one of Shanghai’s most famous Buddhist temples, originally built over 780 years ago during the Song Dynasty, though it has been rebuilt several times since. It is known for its stunning architecture, including the massive bronze statue of the Jing’an Buddha and intricate carvings. Entry costs 50 RMB per person, as almost every tourist site in China charges an admission fee.
Next, we had some vegan food at a nearby restaurant. The flavors still followed traditional Chinese style, often mimicking meat dishes, but it was a relief to find vegetarian options. The chocolate and walnut sweet dishes were a delightful treat.
We then visited the Jade Buddha Temple, another well-known Shanghai landmark, famous for two magnificent jade Buddha statues imported from Myanmar. Interestingly, unlike Jing’an Temple, this temple did not require an entry fee, which was a nice surprise.
After our visit to the Jade Buddha Temple, Anu returned to the hotel, while I set out to explore the Shanghai Propaganda Poster Art Centre, a hidden gem for history and design enthusiasts alike. Tucked away on the 7th floor of Building #726 on Huashan Road (as pinpointed by the Amap app), this small but compelling museum holds an impressive collection of original Chinese propaganda posters spanning from the 1910s to the late 1970s.
The posters vividly capture an era dominated by ideology and upheaval, portraying themes such as the inevitable victory of communism over U.S. imperialism, the virtues of hard labor, and the glory of national unity under Chairman Mao. Particularly striking were pieces from Mao’s Great Leap Forward and the Cultural Revolution—two massive political campaigns that left deep scars on Chinese society. The artwork presented both the utopian dreams of these movements and the stark reality of their destructive impact.
The museum also draws a sharp line at 1978, when Deng Xiaoping rose to power and led China away from its planned economy toward market reforms. With Deng’s new direction, propaganda posters were abruptly discontinued, and the era of state-driven ideological messaging came to a close as China embraced elements of capitalism it once condemned.
Though compact in size, the museum is packed with cultural weight. Interestingly, the museum’s curator once served as a personal interpreter for actress Elizabeth Taylor during her visit to China in 1984, adding a unique personal touch to the space’s story.
I wrapped up my visit around 3 pm, deeply enriched by this glimpse into a powerful visual and political era of China’s modern history. After a short rest back at the hotel, we headed out again in the evening to continue exploring Shanghai.
We rested after returning from the museum and headed out again around 5 pm to Tianzifang, an arts and crafts district situated in Shanghai’s original French Concession.
Tianzifang and the French Concession:
Tianzifang is a charming arts and crafts enclave located in the former French Concession of Shanghai. The French Concession was established in 1849 when foreign powers carved out areas in Shanghai to govern themselves under extraterritorial rights during the era of unequal treaties following China’s defeat in the Opium Wars. This area became a haven for Western expatriates and a unique blend of East and West in architecture, culture, and lifestyle.
Politically, the French Concession was somewhat separate from the rest of Shanghai and Chinese control, which allowed it to develop its own character distinct from the rest of the city. During the 1930s and 40s, it became a refuge for artists, intellectuals, and political dissidents, including those fleeing Japanese occupation or political persecution.
Today, Tianzifang preserves the narrow alleyways and traditional Shikumen architecture — a blend of Western and Chinese styles — and has been revitalized as a creative hub with galleries, cafes, boutiques, and studios. It offers a glimpse into Shanghai’s colonial past while showcasing its dynamic present as a center of culture and commerce.
Tianzifang today is a maze of narrow alleyways filled with boutique shops, cafes, and galleries, offering a blend of old Shanghai charm and modern creativity.
While Tianzifang was a pleasant place to hang out, we felt that Yuyuan Garden was more lively and vibrant. We also enjoyed a vegetarian delight—a naan-like bread heated in a tandoor oven from a local shop for just 4 yuan. It was delicious!
On the train back, it struck us how glued to their phones people are in China—an amusing sight and quite a cultural observation. We got back to the hotel by 8:30 pm and were ready to retire early, as Anu was feeling under the weather and needed rest. I was feeling better, but also needed to recover.
Day 9: May 21 – Suzhou: The City of Gardens and Canals
On Wednesday, we had planned a day trip to Suzhou, a historic city 110 km west of Shanghai, famous for its classical gardens and picturesque canals. Unfortunately, Anu wasn’t feeling well, so she stayed back at the hotel to rest. I decided to go ahead with the trip solo.
I took the 9:00 am non-stop high-speed train from Shanghai to Suzhou. The train covered the 110 km distance in just 25 minutes, reaching a top speed of 262 km/h—quite like going from Baroda to Surat in less than half an hour! Trains run every 15 minutes on this route, and both the Shanghai and Suzhou stations were impressively modern and efficient.
Arriving at Suzhou Railway Station at 9:25 am, I took the subway to the Humble Administrator’s Garden area. I passed by the Suzhou Museum, which looked interesting, but unfortunately, it required a WeChat local account to enter, so I had to skip it.
Next, I visited the Lion Grove Garden (also known as Lion Forest Garden). I expected something similar to the Humble Administrator’s Garden, but this one was very different and unique. It features an intricate arrangement of limestone rocks that resemble lions and various animals, forming caves and winding paths. Despite being a smaller garden (entry 40 yuan), it was a fascinating and creative experience.
The Lion Grove Garden, dating back to 1342 during the Yuan Dynasty, is one of Suzhou’s most distinctive classical gardens. Renowned for its intricate Taihu rockeries—stone formations sculpted into shapes resembling crouching lions—the garden’s labyrinth of caves, pathways, and pavilions creates an ever-changing landscape. Covering just 1.1 hectares, it packs dramatic vistas into a compact space, exemplifying the ingenuity of traditional Chinese garden design and earning its reputation as a “rockery wonder of the world.”
Around noon, I stopped for lunch and was happy to find papaya salad and spicy tofu with rice—a welcome vegetarian option. In general, finding meals without eggs, meat, or fish in China was a challenge. Locals often laughed or looked puzzled when we explained our dietary preferences—they simply couldn’t imagine a full meal without those elements.
Post lunch, I walked through the charming Pingjiang Road area, located along the Suzhou Grand Canal. The canal-side streets were beautiful, with historic architecture, boutique shops, and the option of canal boat rides—an extremely popular tourist activity. It was a lovely and relaxing walk.
From there, I took the subway to visit the famous Tiger Hill Pagoda, one of Suzhou’s oldest and most culturally significant landmarks.
Tiger Hill (Huqiu Shan) is one of Suzhou’s most famous historical and cultural landmarks, often called the “Number One Sight in Suzhou.” With a history stretching back over 2,500 years, it is believed to be the burial site of King Helü of Wu. The site is best known for the Leaning Cloud Rock Pagoda (Yunyan Pagoda), a seven-story brick pagoda often compared to the Leaning Tower of Pisa due to its noticeable tilt. The hill combines natural beauty with historic architecture, including bonsai gardens, stone paths, and ancient inscriptions.
Legend has it that a white tiger appeared to guard the king’s tomb shortly after his death—hence the name “Tiger Hill.”
After Tiger Hill, I strolled along Shantang Road and once again enjoyed the scenic views of the Suzhou Grand Canal. The experience was peaceful and felt distinctly different from the larger Chinese cities we had visited so far.
I reached back at Suzhou Railway Station around 3:00 pm and boarded the 3:29 pm high-speed train back to Shanghai, arriving by 4:10 pm.
Back at the hotel, we ended the day quietly. I ordered Aloo Gobhi and Yellow Dal—finally, Indian comfort food after days of searching! Anu and I relaxed and watched two episodes of Toxic City on Netflix.
Later that night, I made one last visit to The Bund to admire the dazzling Shanghai skyline. It was, once again, an unforgettable view and a perfect way to close the day.
Day 10: May 22 — Farewell to China
This was our last day in China. Anu was still recovering, so I set out alone to visit some of the museums in Shanghai.
My first stop was the Shanghai Museum of Science and Technology. The museum’s grand exterior was impressive, but unfortunately, it has been closed for renovations since March 31, 2023. It is expected to reopen at the end of 2025, so I wasn’t able to visit the exhibits.
Not deterred, I made my way next to the Shanghai Natural History Museum. On the way, I passed through the Jing’an Sculpture Park, which features a variety of interesting and whimsical public art installations—an unexpected and delightful urban space.
The Natural History Museum turned out to be a highlight. The museum offers an immersive journey from the origins of the universe through the age of dinosaurs to present-day biodiversity. The exhibits are detailed and thoughtfully presented, appealing to both children and adults. The entry fee was only 30 yuan, and it was absolutely worth it. This is a must-visit in Shanghai, especially for anyone interested in science and evolution.
Housed in a striking modern building on Beijing West Road, the Shanghai Natural History Museum traces its origins to 1956 and reopened in its current form in 2015. Its extensive collections span over 240,000 specimens, from dinosaur skeletons and ice age fossils to rare taxidermy mammals and vibrant insect displays. The museum’s interactive exhibits and immersive dioramas—such as a towering Tyrannosaurus rex cast and a life-sized whale model—offer a compelling journey through Earth’s 4.6-billion-year history. Its thoughtful curation and state-of-the-art design make it one of Asia’s premier natural history institutions.
We checked out of our hotel around 1:10 pm and reached Shanghai Pudong International Airport by 2:00 pm. Check-in, immigration, and security were all very smooth and efficient.
May 22 also happened to be our wedding anniversary. As a surprise gift, Aditya had upgraded us to upper-class seats on our flight from Shanghai to Mexico City. It was a wonderful way to end a remarkable trip.
We boarded our American Airlines flight to Dallas and then onward to Mexico City, marking the end of our 10-day journey through China—a trip full of discovery, challenges, learning, and unforgettable moments.
Goodbye China. Until next time.
